When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.
This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely shocked.
“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.
It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.
It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.
A passionate writer and shopping enthusiast with a keen eye for quality products and lifestyle trends.
Brian Hernandez
Brian Hernandez